Nom de Plumage

August 2, 2013




Today is a milestone, for it is six months since I have left home and it is also the day that I shall be leaving the European continent, bound for Britain. It is then only fitting, that I should reflect on my adventures and prepare myself for new ones.

My three-day visit with the French woman did not entirely play out as planned. Although, I did get to see spectacular scenery and fulfil my dream to see the Somme Valley and the war cemeteries, it was not without some dramas. I did something very out of the ordinary and excepted an invitation from a stranger to stay in their home. I have always felt uncomfortable about such things and hence the reason it took so long to confirm my visit. My hesitation was in tune with my intuition and I should have listened to it. Without going into too much detail, basically the woman suffers from severe depression and made me feel very uncomfortable and through her jealousy and insecurities, she judged me unfairly. It was hard to overcome such ill-treatment, but I am wiser for the experience and leave France sadly on a sour note.

I experienced something also that I believe many travellers, regardless of their sex or age must experience, and that is pursued by someone who is married.  It is while I was in Lucerne that I met a man who worked in a bar and throughout one evening he flirted. This time, I listened to my intuition and decided against returning any flirtation because of my imminent departure and eventual return to Australia. I ask advice from some friends and they all said that I should not have been so quick to fob him off and that I should go back and see where it will lead. It lead to my finding out from a third-party that the man is not only married, but has children. He did nothing to deny it and could only muster a sheepish smile. Thankfully, nothing happened and if not for the fact that I regretted wasting the money to return to Lucerne, it did save me embarrassment and eliminated the dreaded ‘what if’ ?

My three-month Eurail Pass has now officially expired and it is with a wonderful sense of achievement that I store the pass away as a reminder of my unbelievable destinations. Before departing on each train journey, I needed to fill out the form (to validate each journey) on the pass. I had used my pass extensively, that while in Berlin, I needed another form. The two attendants at the train station, were in shock that I requested another form, so much so, that they read the form to see what countries I have visited. Impressed, they laughed and handed me a new form and wished me well.

If you had asked me just one question before I even left Australia about what I fear most on my journey, you will be surprised to know that it is the fear of not being able to communicate with people. True! It is because I knew that I could not learn every language of the countries that I shall visit. I have read and heard countless stories of locals being rude to tourists who will not/cannot communicate in the language of the people, that I was very nervous. And for what? I will not lie that I did not meet a few rude people, but once I had made some attempt to communicate in their language, the language barrier dissipated and communication (either verbal or hand) is established. Funny, that even though I could not understand the actual language spoken, I somehow could understand the meaning behind the words. It is the unwritten law of communication and it surprised me that with some effort, we understood each other. Unfortunately, I missed not being able to read everything that surrounded me, or even have a meaningful conversation with the locals.

Of all the train stations in Europe that I travelled to/through, it is undoubtably Gare de Nord in Paris that was the station I visited the most. Not my most favourite of stations and yet it is fittingly the last station that I visit as I leave Paris bound for Britain on the Eurostar. I make my way up the stairs towards the UK customs and it is with relief when the customs officer speaks to me in perfect English. Ahhh! We spoke while he was processing my ticket and then he stopped and shook his head while he was flicking through my passport. The dreaded stamps from Berlin! I tried to make light note of it and although he laughed and informed me that many tourist also make the same mistake, he reiterated politely and strongly the foolishness of my actions. What now makes perfect sense, then seemed sensible. In fact, for a five euros and five stamps, each of countries that now do not exist, I had in fact committed an offence. He assured me that I will not have my passport confiscated because many other tourists fall into the same trap, but he warned me to think twice about my actions and that passports are legal documents that must not be tampered with. Point taken!

I believe that I may have had high expectations of the Eurostar train and it was only when I enter the train, reality hit. In fact, the train was very cramped, leg space minimal, luggage space minimal and the decor is a faded and worn grey colour. The journey itself was barely two hours long, but it was the experience of travelling under the channel that I was anticipating the most. Twenty minutes; that was all it took. Barely a blink and I was on British soil.  I exited the train at St Pancreas station, and became euphoric at the sound of the English language. My journey got that much easier simply because I could put the fear of not being able to communicate behind me, to a world where I could read and communicate perfectly. Bloody marvellous! My journey on the London metro was not so easy, especially when it is almost peek-hour. But it also does not help when I am carrying a very big back-pack and the metro train is very cramped and narrow. I was very taken back and had to contend with being jostled about.

At my destination, I had no idea where my hostel is. The hostel is operated by a private company and they do not provide directions. I tried looking for a taxi and could not find any or the taxi stand, so I went to ask someone at the station. The guard directed me to a place around the corner and still I could not find it. Went back to the station and he informed me again what I need to look for. It is in fact, a tiny shop (without a sign) and when I peered inside the large window, there was a large group of men of many different ethnicity playing cards. I hesitantly walk in to ask if this is where I can get a taxi. A quick discussion of whose turn it is next, a little Jamaican guy jumps up and takes me to his taxi. No sign and no meter. I am nervous and he senses my hesitation and assures me that it is a flat five-pound fee.

When I reach my hostel, I knock for about ten minutes before someone eventually hears me and opens the door. I had to telephone the office that I arrived and they inform me that they emailed me informing me that I have to go to another of their properties. Thankfully, the secretary comes to pick me up and it is only a short drive to the hostel. It is more like a huge house, clean and very comfortable and full of Aussies. I feel right at home and in good company.



June 23, 2013

Sachsenhaussen Concentration Camp in Berlin

Filed under: Diary,Solo Travelling,Travel Journal — nomdeplumage @ 4:04 pm
Tags: ,

Many years ago when I was living in both Stuttgart and Munich, the thought had come to my mind many times about whether I would like to visit a concentration camp. The infamous Dachau camp was not very far from Stuttgart and I asked my friends and work colleagues about it. The look on their faces was enough deterrent as I knew that emotionally I was not ready to see the horrors by myself. Fast forward many years and my attitude has changed.

When I arrived in Berlin, I had not even heard about the Sachsenhaussen Camp and had no inclination to visit one. That is until I spoke to my two American roommates who had just visited the day before and they convinced me that the time was now or never. What I did know, is that it is not a place I want to visit on my own and so I booked a tour. So why now? Honestly, not because it fascinates me or that I wish to see the horrors, but because the need to try to comprehend human nature and the brutality of war compels me to bury my ignorance and face emotions and grasp a time in history that will never be forgotten.

The weather perfectly suited my thoughts and emotions for what I was about to see; cold, grey and miserable. I had to run to the S-Bahn station and I was almost there when the train pulls into the station. A man overtakes me and runs in the vain hope of getting on board before the doors close. The conductor was nice and opened the doors. The man boards the train and holds open the door and gestures me to get in. Very thankful. I arrived at the tour’s meeting point with time to spare and met some nice people. We were standing out in the open when it started to rain, then the rain froze and ice fell and finally it started to snow. I just knew that this will be a long day.

At the Bombardier train station we meet with our group leader Jakob. A young man originally from Czech but now living in Berlin, speaks perfect English. Due to the severity of the weather, many trains are either cancelled or delayed and for some time we had no idea if a train would come. Thankfully one did and we board the RE for Oranienburg. We arrive more than thirty minutes later and Jakob recommends that we have some lunch first from the local bakery because there is no food at  the camp. We all opt for a sandwich, a sweet pastry and coffee and are very satisfied except for a young American couple who ask where there nearest McDonald’s is. We all shake our heads.

Our fifteen minute walk to the camp is the same journey that the prisoner’s walked on their way to uncertainty. When we turn the last corner, the camp comes into sight and something profound and even pathetic hits me. The street is lined with houses that end at the very barricade that circumnavigates the camp. These houses were built before the war and housed the families of the SS officers. The children and wives would have seen the prisoners, heard the gunshots and smelt the thick unnatural smell of bodies being cremated. It begs the question; did they know what was happening?

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The entrance is before me and the black steel gate with the immortalised words “Arbeit Macht Frei” (Life is not Free) brings a shiver down my spine. Reality could never have prepared me for what I have seen many times on TV or in books and no amount of anticipation can ever displace the fear of seeing those words before me. Through the gate and the triangle courtyard awaits. The bitter cold vastness of the inner courtyard is a powerful reminder that here the prisoners stood barely clothed and starving for a roll call every morning.  Sachsenhaussen was the first camp built and the model for all other camps to follow. Barely anything exists of its former days because once the war was over, people destroyed what valuable material they could to rebuild their homes. The high stone fences, barbed-wire fences and guard towers still are the original. A house that once was the local socialising and drinking venue for the officers after a hard days work (?) still stands, albeit bordered up. Two dormitories that housed the prisoners has been rebuilt.

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There are two museums on the premises. The first one beautifully recreates the lives of some of the men, women and children who were prisoners here. There are no graphic photos, but the stories are poignant reminders of the hardship and probable deaths faced every day by the thousands who are incarcerated here. The other museum is more in-your-face because it shows the actual weapons or equipment used to kill the prisoners. The chipped wooden frame used for hanging stands in the centre of the room. It permeated a foul smell that can only be associated with death. The other sinister wooden structure, looked almost unimportant until our tour guide explained how it was used. But of the brutality, some hope could be found downstairs in the cold rooms were the food was stored and prepared by the prisoners. On the concrete pillars are comical pictures painted by some prisoners who had possibly some humour and hope even in those terrifying times.

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We arrive at our final destination within the camp and are a sign that reads, “the only way to freedom is through the Z station”, is before us. What is the Z station? A simplified explanation; the place of execution (freedom). Freedom came in the expensive form of a bullet and then cremation. The early days before mass extermination was invented. The place still stands were prisoners were shot and as you walk further to an enclosed area, the dilapidated ovens come into view and a sick an overwhelming feeling strikes hard. Of all the places, this was the hardest to visit because all hope ended and everything became so brutally final. Our tour guide mentioned that at one stage there was so many bodies to be cremated that a thick black plume of smoke covered the surrounding town for days. The suffocating stench of burning human flesh and the stifling smoke must have been unbearable and yet I ask the question: were the people who lived nearby aware of what was happening?

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We departed from the camp bewildered and in silence for what we had all just seen. It is one thing to read about it and watch it in movies or on TV, but something wholly different in reality. I cannot write that I feel better for coming or that I may even except what happened during the war, but I can certainly write that it has changed me.

When we arrived at the train station, there was confusion about which platform we should wait on for our train and in the ensuing drama, the group separated and some got on another train. The other half of the group which I was apart of, got the next train but it did not take us directly back to the city. We had to change at a station called Lichtenberg. Thankfully, I was in a group because this station made me feel very uncomfortable. Drunk youths were singing racists songs and the feeling of tension and hate was in the air. The war maybe over, but for some, denial and hate are still ever-present.

June 18, 2013

Berlin – The City of Museums



I started my day back at the very gate that welcomed me to Berlin; the Brandenburg Gate. The Kennedy Museum is next to the US Embassy and the first of many museums that I would visit today. I have always been fascinated with America’s royal family and the power and tragedy that came at a high price. The museum is mainly a photo gallery of the main Kennedy players, along with wonderful memorabilia of John F Kennedy.

Linten Strasse is a wide and very impressive street that is lined with beautiful neo-classical buildings. I unexpectedly came upon the Humboldt University and wanted so much to go inside, but I was not allowed for obvious reasons. I am content with a photograph and walked further down the street to a very beautiful and very pink building that is the German History Museum. I am not deterred by the unusual colour and enter to discover a wonderfully rich and varied collection from ancient to modern times, royal families, art, philosopher’s and both world war’s. A great museum and one of my favourite displays is dedicated to philosopher’s such as Voltaire, Rousseau and many other’s. But the most outstanding of all, would be the moving and confronting memorabilia of both wars. To actually see SS and Nazi uniforms and footage of the destruction of both lives and cities, is very powerful viewing.

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Directly beside the pink museum is a channel of water that is partly frozen. I turn and follow this frozen path and what stands before me, is again, beautiful classical stone structures that could easily find a home in ancient Greece or Rome. The Pergamon Museum is a huge building dedicated to Egyptian and Islāmic works. The front entrance is impressive enough, but when you enter the building, ancient makes way to a modern interior housing very old precious artefacts. Further up the road is the Bode Museum and this smaller building has a very regal entrance and even more regal antiquity. From German, Greek and Roman artefacts, to sculptures, paintings and silver and bronze pieces of workmanship, this museum is also wonderful.

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But wait……there are more museums.

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I would like to write and boast that I visited every museum within the vicinity, but that would be a lie. It would not have been humanely possible nor could I have done justice. There is also the possibility that I may have come away either cross-eyed or blinded from all the reading and glare from the precious metal and stones, that I thought better of it as I still have some way to travel. These buildings are very impressive and I do not even know if any of them are the original or if they were rebuilt after the war. What I can write, is that no city that I have visited thus far, has been able to fuse ancient or modern, stone or glass; quite so perfectly as Berlin has.  What I do know, is that the Berliner Dom was destroyed in the war and was painstakingly rebuilt to its original design. What is even more surprising, is that the royal family crypt is all that survived the bombings. I am sure that the royal bones were rattled a bit, but there place of rest is once again at peace.

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Needless to say, that the cathedral was not only beautiful, but built-in stone, marble, gold and wood. There is a small museum upstairs that shows drawings, paintings and model replica’s of the cathedral and other old buildings. The guide was very friendly and even directed me on which angle and position I should stand to get the best photo’s. Very sweet!

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Alexanderplatz is a modern precinct where I stopped to have lunch. In all honesty, I was not overly impressed. But in saying that, I can see that what my not be impressive now, will change very quickly. It is still an area of vast open space, filled with modern glass high rises and growing at an unprecedented rate. It is edging closer to the old Berlin and what is a construction site now, will be something amazing in the future.

June 13, 2013

Food, Gadgets and a Wonderful Department Store in Berlin

Filed under: Travel Journal — nomdeplumage @ 2:09 pm
Tags: , ,
A viod in the Jewish Museum, Berlin

A void in the Jewish Museum, Berlin (Photo credit: Wikipedia)


Jewish Museum Berlin, slabs.

Jewish Museum Berlin, slabs. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)


The 6th-floor food hall at Kaufhaus des Westen...

The 6th-floor food hall at Kaufhaus des Westens, Berlin (Photo credit: Wikipedia)


English: The winter garden with restaurant on ...

English: The winter garden with restaurant on top level of KaDeWe department store in Berlin (Photo credit: Wikipedia)




The Judisches (Jewish) Museum is a place that my friend really wanted to visit and I went with her. I really had no expectation and actually thought that the museum would concentrate solely on the Holocaust. But I could not have been more wrong and in fact, I did enjoy parts of the exhibition. The entrance fee is very reasonable at four euros and security is tight. We enter and walk down stairs to a bleak expanse of corridors that tell the story of the tragedy of World War II. The exhibition was sparse and I expected more. To our disappointment, the newest outside exhibition is closed due to the bad weather and heavy snow fall. The first two levels I found boring and I parted with Christiane in search of the two upper levels. The museum is huge and when I eventually did find what I was looking for, I was not disappointed. There was so much information to read and absorb, photographs, footage and wonderful stories to read. I loved it! It was not just about Holocaust, it was much more. Well worth the visit and very happy that Christiane convinced me to visit.


After our lunch break, we caught the U-Bahn to the Europa Centre and I was in awe of the place. The long wide street, is a mecca for technology junkies and a haven for shoppers. We spent an hour just in the electronic’s department, which is actually not a lot when you consider there is six levels of gadgets and much more. If only I had the money! Towards the end of the street, is Germany‘s famous department store called Ka De We. I have never heard of this place and had no idea what to expect, but I can write now, that it is the best department store I have seen so far.


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Ka De We is all that you would expect of a first-class department store. Six levels of the finest wares, designer brands and more choices that only help to spoil your choices. Needless to write, that the prices most definitely matched the quality of the goods and both my friend and I, absolutely loved this place. But for me personally, the fifth level was my favourite. A huge level dedicated to food. It consisted of many different sections, whereby each section represents something different i.e. seafood/fish, fresh meat/processed, cheese, fruit/vegetables, packaged goods and more. Small restaurants are throughout the level selling a wonderful different array of cooked food. The smell was amazing and it was also great to see the chefs cook the meals fresh in front of the guests. My favourite section by far, is the one dedicated to chocolate. I have never seen so much chocolate, both packaged and hand-made.


The sixth and final level, comprises of a massive buffet area selling a wide assortment of hot and cold food, both savoury and sweet. We stopped here for our dinner and are spoilt for choice. It has only been my second full day in Berlin and I am already loving it. It is our final day together. Christiane leaves early tomorrow morning, bound for home and I will miss her very much. She has been a great companion and has a crazy and affectionate personality.


June 11, 2013

Ich Einer Berliner

Come on, it is one of the greatest faux pas ever and I love it. So when in Berlin………

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Berlin is one of the more unusual cities that I have visited and I say that with affection and awe. It is the capital of Germany and yet, there are no crowds as you would expect. There are large vacant plots of land within the city, which is something you do not expect in a capital city and it is a metropolis with an eclectic mix of stunning old stone architecture and amazing modern glass design. It is a city of wide boulevards, culture, fabulous museums and relatively cheap compared to other world capitals. One cannot deny its violent history and nothing represents this more than the infamous Brandenburg Gate. I have seen it countless times in photo’s and footages of World War II and remember the live telecast when the Berlin Wall is pulled apart with bare hands and hammers, right in front of this gate. A most profound and surreal feeling as I stand before it. It is a beautiful piece of architecture and the gateway to a wonderful wide boulevard of Unten Linden Strasse.

Christiane and I walked through the gate and directly on either side of the boulevard, is fittingly, the American and French Embassies. This street has some wonderful shops and museums i.e. the Kennedy Museum, Madame Tussaud’s and my favourite, a whole shop dedicated to one of Germany’s famous products – Nivea. It is the only shop that I have come across, where people gasp in delight when they see it (me included). We spent some time here and then went to the wax museum because Christiane has never seen a museum like this and it is also great fun.

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This is my second wax museum and it won’t be my last. There is something bizarre about seeing your idol or someone famous up close and let’s face it, for the majority of us, this is as good as it gets! We had great fun. Each wax museum will have famous personalities that represent something that the world admires and loves i.e. Nelson Mandela or Einstein, plus a wonderful mix of famous national celebrities. Here in the Berlin Madame Tussaud’s is Beethoven, Sissy, Carl Jung, Anne Frank, Steffi Graff, Boris Becker and my favourite – Oliver Khan. The pose is just perfect!

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Friedrichstrasse is the main boulevard within the city. It is very long and it was once famously cut in half by the Berlin Wall. It is here that we find an amazing shopping precinct and stop for lunch. It is a fairly decent size mall that offers a wonderful array of food shops to choose from. The problem was, which one to choose and so we both opted for something simple and light. Christiane discovered an alcohol shop to die for. She is in the industry and was very envious of the size and array of different alcohols from around the world. Just around the corner from our lunch stop, is Berlin’s most beautiful square. Beautiful ornate stone buildings circumnavigate this square. There is a theatre and the Franzossischer Dom. For a few euros, we climbed the million stair spiral staircase (just joking about the million, but it bloody felt like it) and exited to the roof top for a spectacular 360 degree view of the city. Unfortunately, the weather was not great.


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Towards the middle of Friedrichstrasse, is Check Point Charlie. For any tourist visiting this city, I highly recommend seeing it and the museum. It is an iconic representation of the communist era and although there is a soldier standing at the gate, it is now only for show. There is a place where for one euro each stamp, you can get your passport stamped with East German, Russian, USA, Britain and French stamps. I did it and thought nothing of it; until later. One must remember that your passport is an official document and your identity when travelling in foreign countries. Those stamps sold for one euro are not official and therefore, you are allowing illegal stamps in a legal document. I do not believe anyone has ever had their passport confiscated (I got a warning), most tourists visiting the city have fallen into the same trap, but it begs the question, why do they allow it when they know what the ramifications could be?

I went to the museum alone because my companion has already see it. It was full with tourists. Several levels and many rooms filled with tragic stories of betrayal and survival of victims who had to endure the brutal regime. There was so much information to absorb. Other countries that are also affected by the brutal communist regime are represented here. There are documents, footage, memorabilia and so much more crammed into this place. At the entrance to this place, is a giant piece of the Berlin Wall, graffiti and all.

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Night is closing in and we are both hungry after having only a light lunch. Not far from the museum is a Thai restaurant that looks very modern and has a calming atmosphere. I ordered a non alcoholic fruit cocktail that not only was big, but it had a zing that exploded in my mouth. It was delicious! My meal of noodles with vegetables in a coconut sauce is a dish that I almost always order because nothing represents fresh Thai food than noodles and vegetables. The coconut sauce is my weakness.  For dessert, a fruit salad accompanied with an amazing and very unusual tea of ginger, chilli, honey and milk froth. Wow!






June 10, 2013

Berlin Here I Come

Filed under: Travel Journal — nomdeplumage @ 4:50 pm
Tags: , ,


I fondly remember an occasion several months ago in Milan, talking with several tourists from different parts of the world about places we have visited or places we want to visit. It is the Englishman who stands out profoundly as he did no favours selling any possible reason I might wish to travel to Berlin. In fact, he almost persuaded me in not visiting the city at all. Almost! There is this underlying message that keeps rearing itself as my travels progress and that is I need to make the decision  for myself about which country I should visit and then decide if it was worth it. And so I depart Luzern early in the morning and travel almost the length of Europe to a city on the cusp of a new and exciting era.

There are times that I decide to take a risk and not reserve a seat. Reservation expenses start to add up and I believed I may get away with it this time. Yeah! For about two hours I did. I made sure to seat myself in a non-reserved seat and thought I would be safe, but it was not to be. I was kindly informed to vacate the seat and found myself standing in the aisle for an hour because the train was full. It worked out well because I meet an Australian family and we started talking about our travel experiences. Before I knew it, the train arrives in Frankfurt and the quickly empties, giving me a relaxing five-hour journey through the heart of Germany.

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The name itself, “Bombardier”, evokes power and nothing can prepare you for the amazing massive structure that looms before you as the train slowly pulls into Berlin’s main train station. I am speechless and had no idea that such a modern and awe-inspiring building existed. It is more amazing at night when the building is lit up like a scene from Star Wars. When my train arrives, I have yet to realise the size of this thing, that is until I exit the main platform and make my way down the escalator to the main concord, and then it really hits. What lays before me is several platforms containing shops and cafe’s and then the last platform at the very bottom, where trains depart for the outer suburbs of Berlin. Massive! Very modern and very efficient. I have to write, a good way to start my Berlin journey and I know that it is a prelude of what is too come. I cannot wait!

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It is late in the evening and I am tired from doing nothing all day. I find it funny to write that, to sit all day reading and watching the world pass by, it is

Opened in 2006, Berlin Hauptbahnhof is a large...

Opened in 2006, Berlin Hauptbahnhof is a large station at the crossing point of two major railways and features modern, abstract architecture. Berlin used to have a ring of terminus stations, similar to London and Paris, but these were gradually replaced with through stations over the period of 1882-1952. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

exhausting. I catch the train that will take me to my hostel and quickly realise that my hostel is half way back to Luzern. It is a forty minute journey and I had no idea it would be so far out from the city. Funny enough, it is the first thing Christiane says (even before a hello) when she arrives quite unexpectedly later that evening. Sorry! But, we are happy to see each other once again and make plans for our day tomorrow.


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